第16号は、『The Old World, Living New』をタイトルに掲げ、アメリカ人フォトグラファー、テレーズ・ボニー(Thérèse Bonney)を特集する。1923年、パリに暮らす一人のアメリカ人女性が、あるアイデアを思いついた。身の回りに現れはじめた新しい部屋を写真に収め、それをアメリカへ送るというものである。その女性こそ、テレーズ・ボニーである。当時、「ソルボンヌ大学(Sorbonne University)」で博士号を取得した最初期のアメリカ人女性の一人となったばかりで、画家のラウル・デュフィ(Raoul Dufy)やジョルジュ・ルオー(Georges Rouault)を友人に持ち、学問の道を歩むことよりも、身の回りで起きていることに関心を寄せていた。そこで起きていたのは、モダニズムであった。
Study is an independent magazine about photography, fashion, art, interiors and the people and things we find difficult to stop thinking about.
Founded in 2022 in Paris by Christopher Niquet, it gives images and words equal care, with long-form portfolios conceived to be kept rather than scrolled past. Published in English. Four volumes a year.
In 1923, an American woman in Paris had an idea: photograph the new rooms appearing around her and send them back to America.
Her name was Thérèse Bonney. She had recently become one of the first American women to receive a doctorate from the Sorbonne, counted Raoul Dufy and Georges Rouault among her friends, and was apparently more interested in what was happening around her than in pursuing academic life. What was happening was modernism.
Bonney photographed the interiors of Jean-Michel Frank, Pierre Chareau, Georges Djo-Bourgeois, Sarah Lipska and others as they dismantled the conventions of domestic life. Out went the ornament and heavy furniture. In came empty space, strange materials, new objects. A new way of living appeared. A century later, these rooms still look remarkably radical.
Study Volume 16 returns to Bonney's archive to look at Paris in the 1920s through its interiors and at a largely forgotten woman who understood very early that a room could tell you almost everything about the person living in it. Running through the portfolio is Gertrude Stein's “Rooms.”
As a counterpoint to the highly composed interiors of Thérèse Bonney, photographer Bruno Staub and fashion editor Charlotte Collet went to a trailer camp in the Paris suburbs with four teenagers. There is no grand narrative. They hang around, talk, wait, get bored. The clothes are similarly unforced: raw, familiar, sometimes almost banal, worn without much thought about being fashionable.
There is something Rohmerian in the simplicity of it all : the small connections between people, empty stretches of time and the feeling that nothing is happening until suddenly something is.
Fashion is present, but clothes are worn rather than displayed. Style appears mostly by accident.
For our brand specials, Study gives a new collection to a photographer or artist with a visual world entirely their own. In past issues Bruce Weber photographed Celine, Takashi Homma took on Jacques Marie Mage. Rosemarie Trockel made Loewe unmistakably Trockel. This time, Angela Hill meets Bottega Veneta.
In London, Hill photographed Los Angeles skater Georgia Martin wearing pieces from Louise Trotter's Bottega Veneta collection mixed with school uniforms and everyday clothes. No hair. No makeup. No retouching.
Soon, it becomes difficult to tell where Bottega ends and Georgia's own wardrobe begins. And that's the idea. A runway collection removed from the runway and absorbed into someone's life. Fashion becomes clothing; clothing becomes style. What belongs to whom hardly matters anymore.
Contributors : Thérèse Bonney, Charlotte Collet, Angela Hill, Bruno Staub, Gertrude Stein, Hisato Tasaka
Design: Rupert Smyth Studio
- Pages: 178 Size: 210 x 297 mm Softcover Color, black and white